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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest place achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.